Monday, February 05, 2007

Sushi House: Delano Lite

White curtains, marble bar seating, enormous crystal chandeliers, it's all high-style at Sushi House in Aventura. APD was there for the gorge-tastic opening about a year ago and it was time to see how the hip Asian fusion restaurant was faring, now that Williams Island and the rest of Aventura is bursting with snowbirds. The good news, beyond all the overwrought white decor, is that the food is quite good, the sushi appropriately fresh and the service is dependable. There are some strange mayonnaise-heavy sauces making appearances on almost every sushi creation, but that's forgivable; the Japanese love of mayonnaise is well-documented and it figures prominently in many sushi bars in Japan. The eatery gets points for offering obscure Japanese bar-food staples like "kowahagi," fish jerky ($5) pictured above left, an Asian snack that is more chewy than fishy and aged dashi tofu ($6) deep fried and dense.

The Thai selections are less inspired (the usual spring rolls ($8), coconut curries ($13), and pad thai($10), above) but equally serviceable. The sushi creations are playful, disconcertingly named ("Tarantula" ($15) featuring spicy tuna, cucumber, cream cheese, shrimp and topped with crab) and make great use of tempura flakes which I am always in favor of - it's time to put more crunch into sushi. The best perk of eating at Sushi House at an early-bird hour is that they have a great happy-hour menu that offers discounted sake ($5 for a large decanter) and sushi rolls for $4-$5, down from the regular $7 price. It's a good option if you live in North Dade and don't feel like schlepping to South Beach for the Delano effect.
Sushi House
15911 Biscayne Blvd., North Miami Beach

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