Brunch @ One Bal Harbour

Ever since Mark Militello left the kitchen at One Bal Harbour no one talks about the restaurant any more. And while I haven't been back there for dinner since the change I have stopped by for brunch. And there's lots to love at the midday feast. The spread is sized just right. There’s a modest buffest set atop a marble high top table in the oceanfront dining room. You'll find large white bowls filled with chilled jumbo shrimp, square plates of petite tomato caprese with basil and baby arugula, gazpacho soup shooters, beef tartar and silky salmon that’s been marinating in a bath of olive oil, key lime juice and kumquats.

The chef is young Frenchman Thomas Rossi. Nobody's heard of him down here but if more folks sampled that salmon he might start making a name for himself. There’s a choice of three entrees – depending on the day it could be grilled swordfish or roasted chicken with creamy polenta. Then there’s the dessert table, with mini Key lime pies, panna cotta and chocolate mousse.

Ask for a table on the terrace, overlooking the Haulover inlet, and watch the fishing boats putter by. Or sit indoors, where there’s anything from live jazz to bossa nova, samba, Latin and Brazilian music.
Sundays, 12-3pm, $35 or $45 for unlimited champagne and Bloody Marys, 10295 Collins Ave, 305-455-5460.