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Monday, February 21, 2011

Tagliatelle, South Beach

South Beach needs another Italian restaurant like it needs another bikini wax joint. And yet – here’s Tagliatelle, peddling vittles from the Boot. Despite its predictability, it’s hard to resist the charms of the place. It's romantic. It's quiet. It's run by French people. It's tucked away in South of Fifth. The spot is owned by restaurateur Matthieu Mineo, a native of Nice with a handful of restaurants on the French Riviera. He's taken over the old Segafredo spot and given it a Mediterranean polish with cream-colored interiors, whitewashed chairs and tables and a stainless steel bar. But now is the time to take advantage of the outdoor patio – a quiet spot on Collins Ave.
The spotlight is on pasta here, as most of it is made in house including the namesake tagliatelle, fettuccini and the gnocchi. The kitchen is headed by Chef Mariano Gravante, previously of Alta Mare and Indochine. Prices are reasonable given the swanky neighborhood: starters are $6-$14, pastas average $15 and most mains are under $25.
There’s also a three-course pre-fixe menu for $23 that runs from 11:30a to 7p daily.
Some things they do well here - good wine, good pasta. Some things they don't do well - bring you food in a timely fashion. Seriously, carve out at least 2.5 hours for dinner. Also, the desserts could be more exciting.
Highlights include the eggplant terrine, homemade fettuccine with porcini mushrooms, the salmon tartar and the frito misto platter piled high with fried calamari, baby octopus and shrimp.
124 Collins Ave, 305.397.8019

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